Stationary System:
Piers You Can Design and Install Yourself
Above: Stationary Steel System with two Pier Benches and a Ladder.
How to Plan Your Pier and Determine What You Will Need
- First, determine the length of post you will need:
- The water must be measured from the surface of the water to a firm bottom. DON'T GUESS OR ESTIMATE! Mark water depths at each post location when you draw your pier layout.
- Add 3 1/2 feet to the depth measurement of the water to determine post length. This allows for 1 1/2 feet of post augured into the lake bottom, ad 2 feet above the water's surface.
- If a hand rail is desired, add 1 1/2 feet to the depth measurement. You will have a post high enough to have a rope rail 2 1/2 feet from the deck (the rope fits through the turning bar hole at the top of the post).
- To determine the required steel component parts:
- Decide on pier length and design. Straight, with a "T" or an "L" at the end, or with a boat slip.
- 10 foot sections are standard. Unless constrained by other factors, you should think of the pier installation in 10 foot sections.
- Each 3' x 10' Section requires two 10' stringers (which run between the crossbars under the decking) and a standard assembly made up of two posts and one crossbar. Two additional posts and a crossbar are required to begin your pier at the shore. More stringers are necessary for wider piers.
- Additional components for soft lake bottoms:
- If a firm bottom cannot be reached in your mud bottom lake, mud plates with stop clamps must be used on the posts installed.
- Order one mud plate per post.
- Deck Panels
- Panels come in 5' lengths, so two panels are needed fro every 10' section of pier structure. Standard panels come in width up to 12'.
- Each section anchors firmly to the stringers with a simple lock pin through pre-drilled holes.
- Consider accessories such as 2- 3- and 4-step ladders and pier benches.
The posts and crossbars of the Stationary Steel System are hot-dipped galvanized 16Ga tube.
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